Categories
Sew Paradise

Double-sided fleece ruana for Cozy Spring Layers

Now that we’re all sequestered in our homes, it’s time to revive the blog and #stayhomeandsew! Today I’m sharing a favorite cozy spring layer outfit that I love. It’s about 50 degrees out, and I have on a light heather gray cashmere turtleneck (#J.Crew, thrifted from #Poshmark), and a double-sided ruana in light gray Polartec fleece and a camel houndstooth Blizzard Fleece Print from #JoannFabrics.

My ruana pattern is one from #burdastyle which has buttonholes and a tie waist belt. But there are zillions of ruana patterns including free ones online that you can google.

Insert buttonholes in the fleece front and back, for a long tie to go through to wear wrapped. The tie goes in the front, around your waist, back out the back buttonhole, across your waist and back in on the other back buttonhole, across your other side and out the front buttonhole before tying. So the visual effect is a waist belt in the front and back but not on the sides.

And, a pic of some neighbor’s crocuses because, well, we need cheery flowers right now!

Categories
Sew Paradise

Boyfriend Jacket Pattern Review

I love a good Boyfriend jacket. Back in the 80s, I lived in and loved jackets. I remember a particularly awesome one, a white crushed satin-y fabric that I bought at a popular teen clothing store, and wore over my paperbag waist acid wash tapered denim jeans and pastel tee shirts a la Miami Vice. Oh yeah! You know the look!

The Christine Jonson Patterns Boyfriend jacket is a favorite of mine now that the Boyfriend jacket has come back in fashion (same, too, with those paperbag acid wash jeans too!) I have made this four times, twice in a knit and twice in a woven fabric. The beauty is it works in both knit and woven fabrics.

I chose a vintage glen plaid that I got from a local sewing store, Seams Fabric in downtown East Lansing, from their vintage and reclaimed fabrics room. It’s a poly-rayon blend (it does want to wrinkle, and has a smooth feel, so I suspect more rayon than poly) I added a lined pocket to the front, matching the plaid to the jacket.

The Boyfriend is a straightforward sew. The only even slightly tricky part is the shawl collar – the back neckline and the facing come together in a squared off U when you sew them, and there are clear instructions on this. I mark well, clip where I’m supposed to and flatten out the U as I sew it directionally as specified in the instructions. The other key sewing tip is to use directional sewing for major parts of the jacket – for instance, I sew down the facing from CB to hem and CB to the other hem – I don’t start at one hem and sew all the way round to the other one.

One of my very favorite things about this jacket is that the unlined facing is completely topstitched down, so you have no floppy facings! I prefer pockets and there’s a free download template for one on the Christine Jonson website. I line mine because it’s easier to sew around a pocket hem than it is to fold under, secure and topstitch. I line it and turn it through where the lining meets the folded over top edge of the pocket, then slip stitch the opening closed.

I also made this, unlined, with pockets, in a pink tiny check wool blend that I got from a buy-sell-trade group on Facebook. It’s definitely wool (again, vintage, reclaimed fabric) but lightweight and a pretty pink that looks fabulous over a blue and white striped tee and jeans. Because the fabric appears more solid than patterned when you stand away from it, you can feel free to wear a floral or stripe tee under it. I utilized the selvedge for a fold-over facing on the pocket, for an interesting detail.

If you’re using a woven, a tip, measure the sleeve width BEFORE cutting, as the jacket is designed for stretch knit fabrics, and to push up the sleeves, you may want to go wider than the pattern is on your woven fabric so you can roll the sleeves comfortably. I have skinny arms so this wasn’t an issue, but my arms are fairly unnaturally skinny (smaller than my 9-yo’s wrists!)

I cut an S in this jacket in either fabric, but check your hip measurements using the enclosed Tissue Pattern Measurement sheet (they calculate what the measurements are flat on paper and add them up for you) so you can be sure you can button the jacket (if you choose!) in a woven fabric. I actually omitted buttons and buttonholes entirely on the gray glen plaid version as I rarely use them (mainly for decoration.)

I have made this previously in a cream ponte knit and a heather charcoal gray ponte knit too. Both of these are well-loved in my wardrobe, and the skinnier arm opening in my size works great to push up the sleeves on the jacket.

The slightly slouchy but STILL shaped jacket is just oversized enough to look like you nipped it from your rock band’s bass player’s closet. Wear it in cream over a leopard print midi pencil skirt and Vans sneakers or over a graphic tee shirt and skinny jeans. This jacket begs for a cool statement necklace and a graphic tee shirt.

The pattern comes with a boatneck shell sleeveless slightly boxy tee shirt – the shirt is slightly cropped and boxy, designed for stretch knit fabrics. In a stripe, it is a cool under layer to this awesome jacket. The boat neck isn’t too crazy wide, just flattering.

Categories
Sew Paradise

Sewing Pattern Review of the Slit Skirt by Christine Jonson Patterns

Midi knit skirt with front slit sewing pattern hack
On the left, a JCrew sweater (thrifted) over the Slit Skirt/ Pencil Skirt with front slit hack from Christine Jonson Patterns and on the right, a CAbi blouse from my closet.

I recently broke out the Slit Skirt by Christine Jonson Patterns. Inspired by the Jan/Feb 2020 issue of Sew News magazine (I’m a print+ digital subscriber), I wanted to make a slim, front slit skirt to wear with oversized slouchy sweaters, unstructured jackets and cropped tees.

In the magazine, the model wears a slim sweater knit skirt with sneakers, a long sleeve v-neck sweater and a hand-dyed Wiksten Haori, which is next up on my list – both the hand-dye and the Haori jacket. (The cover of this magazine is soft pink with a model in a pink sweater and artfully frayed jeans.)

I love the modern, chic, yet casual skirt look. My job is to coach creative & health coaching entrepreneurs in building their businesses through technology. So I spend 100% of my day at my desk, sitting or standing. I need comfort and I love style. This skirt fits the bill (and so will the entire outfit once I’m done.)

I modified the skirt using the instructions at the Christine Jonson Patterns blog here.

My fabric is rayon/nylon/lycra ponte knit, and this ponte is LUSCIOUS. The rayon ponte is the only one you want, and this particular one is so deluxe it feels like sweater knit. Super luxe fabric makes a difference. You could also do this in cotton/lycra too.

The skirt is going to be my go-to skirt for long car trips and plane trips that I have this spring – it’s comfortable and cozy and still offers some venting, because, after all, I am running a little hot these days! It’s narrow enough to ride a bicycle in (this is important as I use bike share and/or bring my bicycle for city travel.)  And it’s perfectly suited for both work (conference) or casual (vacation) travel.

The fabric I chose is 65% rayon, 5% lycra and the rest nylon. It’s been in my stash a while, from back when Christine used to sell fabric as well. But so much great knit fabric abounds that you can find similar quality (look for mostly rayon in your ponte!)

This was an easy and satisfying sew. I modified the slit to be equal on both sides (not overlapping) and I added a security stitch across the front of the slit so it doesn’t pull out if it’s under strain. I sewed the hack as per the blog post and made no other modifications. I do recommend that you try on your waistband, and make it tighter than you think you need to, because tomorrow, it will feel looser!

After making this, and wearing it with a tucked-in v-neck top (also a Christine Jonson pattern) and a draped lightweight boiled wool vest (yet another Christine Jonson pattern!) I decided that I really should have more of these polished knit garments. I wear jeans and tees most of the time, or jeans and sweaters in the winter, and this outfit is both chic and comfortable.

Categories
Fashion for moms nursing tops and dresses Sew Paradise

DIY Strapless Bandeau wide leg jumpsuit – sew your own!

 

CJPatterns-Jumpsuit-225x300This DIY jumpsuit with wide legs is super simple to make. Drafted from the Christine Jonson Wide Leg Pants and sewn with an attached tube top is a very fast-to-make and easy, elegant weekend look.

Sewing this fun, comfortable and easy-to-wear garment is easy. You’ll need your choice of knit pants pattern. The one I’ve selected is Christine Jonson’s Wide Leg and Taper Pant. This pant has a choice between a wide leg (shown here) and a skinny pant. If you want a skinny pant under a bandeau top, go for the slim leg pant, if you want a wide one, like I have on, go for the wide.

Christine recommends that you chalk around your pattern pieces, remove them and then cut them out. I highly recommend it, as you’ll be able to adjust the width of the leg at the hem. This pant (even in a wide leg) has a slight taper, and I prefer it to go straight down from knee to hem.

This pant has no side seam, and neither does the bandeau top, so it’s a perfect match up.

To begin, you need to calculate the bandeau top dimensions. The reason for this is that the bandeau top is a rectangle and your pants are not. So mating up your pants top to the bandeau bottom is best if they are the same width (you’ll see photos in a moment.)

I’m marrying the wide leg pants to a bloused tube top. The tube top’s width is determined by your full bust size  – mine’s 36 inches and to create some ease, I’ve added 4inches to this width (2in. each side) for 40in., plus seam allowances, to 42in.  You might want MORE ease, so just add more to your full bust measurement. I’ll be using a center-back seam on the tube top. Measuring from my high bust to my waist is 15 inches, so I’ve added 6in. to this measurement to account for the waistband seam allowance, a casing for elastic at the top and blousing. My finished flat pattern measurements will be 42w” x 21h. If you want to be sure you have enough blousing, cut this longer and you can always hem the casing at the top shorter when you get there.

In measuring the flat pattern waistband top of the trousers, the size 12 is 38 inches across. I tapered out to a 14 for my slightly wider waist, but you can still see that 42 inches married to 40 inches means I ‘ll have to add 2in. to the waistband (you’ll be gathering this later with elastic casing.)

SewingStraplessJumpsuit.jpg

SewingStraplessJumpsuitDIY

As you can see at left, pants, (back) and tube (back) are ready to be sewn together.  I have also provided a drawing of this part of the instructions as well.

 

 

ConstructingBandeauJumpsuit.jpg

To do this sewing together AND making a casing at the same time, you will mark the actual waist line of the pants on to the right side of your fabric (see the dashed line on the drawing).  Then, you’ll flip the tube so it’s right sides against the right side of the back of the pants. You’ll actually be laying the seamlines together but NOT the raw edges – you could just match up the raw edge waistbands here too and sew a 1.75″ seam allowance, trim away one layer and then fold that up as the casing, but I actually lowered the tube down so it’s seamline matched up with the drawn waistband line on the pants as shown in the drawing.

 

SewingHemOnDIYJumpsuit

Once sewn, you’ll now have a big seam allowance with which to create a casing, so fold that up on the inside, enclosing the raw edge from the tube top part of the garment.

Pin the casing down from the right side of the fabric. Stitch along the pin line, leaving an opening to insert elastic on the back side of the jumpsuit.

In the photo at left, you can also see I’ve folded the top tube casing down for stitching as well as pinned the waistline casing from the outside. Turned under 1/4″ and then 1.25″ (I’m using 1″ wide elastic). You can topstitch that down too, leaving an opening in the back for inserting elastic.

Casings done, it’s time to insert some elastic! Cut elastic to your high bust measurement – this is above your full bust where the top of the tube will rest. Snug it up comfortably, you won’t want this to slip down, but you also won’t want it to be too tight.

Cut your elastic, thread it through the casing and stitch it together before stitching the opening closed.

For the waist, measure a piece of elastic around your waist plus 1″ overlap on each end. Again, snug, but not too snug. You’re not holding up the pants with this (that’s the high bust casing) but you are looking to add definition and sag at the waist = bad. Thread the elastic through, overlap the ends, sew the elastic then sew the casing shut.

You’re almost done!

Hemming tips: I measure a pair of well-fitting pants and do a press-and-pin to that inseam measurement to try them on with the shoes I think I’ll wear. I tend to wear flat shoes most often, especially in summer casual wear, so I hemmed mine with a deep 2.5″ hem straight stitch. Because these are wide legs, I do not need stretch at the hem. Skinny legs, though, you’ll want to use a stretch straight stitch or zigzag or twin needle hem for stretch over your ankle.

That’s it! Slip on the jumpsuit, add some fun jewelry, grab a bag and go!

I also frequently blog about fashion for breastfeeding mothers, and this one is a perfect match of style plus baby feeding friendly. If you feel more comfortable, drape a scarf across your chest (but not over baby’s head) as you nurse to cover your cleavage. I didn’t like to feed my babies under a cover, and they didn’t like to eat under one either.

 

SaveSave

SaveSave

Categories
Sew Paradise

Jalie 3023 Skirtini – Girls’ and Womens’ Swimsuit Sewing Tankini Pattern

We’re a beachy/boaty/swim family around here and it’s no secret that I like swim here at SewParadise. So I sewed a new tankini/skirtini for my 1o yo DD. She picked out this pattern online and I finished it just a day before a beach / island / “up north” weekend in Michigan (yes, all those things!)  This pattern is from Jalie sewing patterns, 3023, and is a really nice design. The sizing is from girls’ toddler 2 to women’s 22, so there pretty much is everyone you might want to sew for in this pattern (and it’s a sewing 22, so check your measurements if you are plus size, as you might well fit into this one.)

I used fabric from stash that people have given me, so it was a $0 cost project. I have more to make myself the tankini version with ruched side panels.

It wasn’t the easiest to follow – Jalie prints in both French and English and so the pictures are separate from the written instructions. I had the picture page printed out and the instruction page on my laptop in front of that so I could scroll around on the instructions.

And there were a few things I think Kwik Sew does better – for instance on Kwik Sew bottoms, you are to stretch lightly in the front of the briefs when attaching the elastic, and stretch the elastic like mad on the back – just think of how you are flat on your inner leg seam but you’re round on your backside – I think Jalie should include instructions on that (it’s not divide in fourths and treat the whole opening evenly as the instructions say). I had to remember the Kwik Sew version of this and I got the second leg opening done better than the first. This is not a huge issue but does affect the fit of the suit a bit.

All in all, I’m very pleased with this suit and this pattern and I intend to sew more of them.

Sew Paradise Jalie Swimsuit Sewing Pattern

SaveSave

Categories
Sew Paradise

Dear Mom at the water park

I see you sitting there in your Capri pants and your book. You look after your beautiful kids swimming in the warm water but you sit, uncomfortable with the  literal and figurative weight that motherhood has left you with.

Girl, get up, put on a swim suit and get in here. Your kids will remember that you played with them and swam with them. They will remember laying their water chilled little bodies on you as you all soaked in the sun.

I bought a new suit this year, a mixed bikini. I tried on one of those high waisted suits but discovered that less fabric suited me more than trying to cover up the jiggly mom belly. My favorite suit is a string bikini. It’s looking a bit worn, but the confidence this suit gives me is not because it covers my mom belly; in fact it doesn’t. This suit is the fierce sailor girl, the windsurfing, brave beach girl with the long wavy honey blonde locks I had as a young 20 something. It’s her that I slip on, with the suit.

Get out on that paddle board, get in the pool, swim in the lake. But don’t spend you kids childhood missing out. No other mom (or dad) is judging you for the love handles and jiggly bum. They have theirs to worry about. And the dads, they never judge; they appreciate.

You have a date with childhood. With seeing your tanned legs sliding down the water slide in the sun, pretending you are your kid. Go. Mom. It’s worth it.

SaveSave

SaveSave

Categories
Sew Paradise

Kwik Sew Swimsuit – You CAN Sew Your Own Swimwear!

Sew Paradise Kwik Sew SwimsuitThis week, I’m sewing a Kwik Sew 3608 bandeau tankini swim suit out of gorgeous Chanel swimwear knit from France. I purchased this fabric last summer from Elliott Berman Textiles in NYC, and it’s luscious. It’s heavy 4-way stretch in a florentine pattern in aquas and blues. It’s spongy-textured and very, very nice. I’ve made this view B suit once before – I sewed it as a modified suit for breastfeeding my children, and wore it through both of their nursing careers. The modifications I made to the bust lining, which included openings in the lining for nursing, I taped back together as one piece for this suit, my kids are now 8 and 5.  I also made a tank style suit with really nifty nursing openings hidden in princess seams (Elizabeth Lee pattern) and that, also, was a huge success. I wore that suit til it wore out.

So what do I love about making swimsuits? I’ll dive back into my childhood for the answers. Growing up, I was a pretty awkwardly skinny kid, and my mom didn’t believe in bikinis. I thought this a travesty, of course, being a teenager. When I was twelve, an older cousin gave me a green terry cloth bikini and my mom wouldn’t let me wear it initially. I remember my mom’s younger sister saying “If she can’t wear a bikini at twelve, when CAN she?” Thanks Auntie for coming to my rescue. But she wasn’t fond of the suit and I never wore another bikini until I could buy them myself.

One summer, my mom gave me a suit of hers, a navy blue one piece bandeau suit. Today, I would love this suit, it had white trim on the top and on the sides and a white tie around the neck. I have a similar suit in red and white stripe and love it for it’s old Hollywood chic. But as a fourteen year old, I was mortified to wear this suit –  it was a MOM suit – and wore it with a tee shirt over it every summer I had to wear it. Which seemed like aeons! One summer, I purchased, with my own money, an aqua blue tank style suit at an inexpensive local store, and the very first day I wore it, I slid off the bow of my dad’s ski boat and caught the back of the suit on a cleat. I was hung there, on the boat, my brother howling with laughter, with a giant wedgie suspending me from the side of the boat. I was both furious and mortified. It was probably the worst day of my teenage life. And the worst part? The suit tore, and my mother wouldn’t buy another. It was the worst summer ever! I’m kidding, but my cheeks still flame thinking of hanging there while someone came to help me down from my cleat-hook swimsuit at the boat ramp.

I swore I’d learn to sew my own swimsuits that summer, but it wasn’t til I was a mother myself that I attempted this. I really don’t know why – they are ridiculously easy to sew! You don’t need a serger, although I did sew mine with one – a zigzag machine is sufficient, and it follows along with the directions which is shown sewn with a zigzag stitch.

And now, on my list is a white bikini. I purchased one of these specimens, a triangle-top, tie-side bikini when I was in my 20s living in Florida. I wore it in the ocean exactly once, and my husband told me to cover up when I got in shore, as it turned entirely see-through!  Now, in my mid 40s, I’ll make a bandeau tankini in white (THREE layers on the inside, two white, one nude) and finally have my white swimsuit day in the sun.

When I first learned to sew swimwear, sewists on PatternReview recommended Kwik Sew for it’s awesome directions and drafting of swimwear, and this was an excellent recommendation to take.

The tankini I chose has a bandeau top and hipster bottom. On me, they meet and overlap (depending on my hem length), but you can choose your own length, if you want more (or less, as the pattern shows) coverage.

I highly recommend making your own swimwear – they take a ridiculously small amount of fabric to sew (usually a yard, including self-linings) and they are very easy. The negative ease built into them makes for easy fitting. The most critical fit is the torso length measurement, and I highly recommend you follow the pattern directions for this if you’re making a one-piece suit. For a two-piece suit, this is not necessary.

One thing that is absolutely is necessary is to use swimwear elastic. This is natural-colored, natural rubber elastic with cotton that won’t get destroyed the first time you go in seawater or chlorinated pools. Don’t use traditional polyester elastic; it will disintegrate quickly. You can buy this at any big fabric / craft store, or online in bulk, in many widths. It’s cream colored, so it looks different. I buy it in bulk from SewSassy.

Making your own swimsuits – particularly out of this expensive and awesome fabric – is easy and rewarding. For me, the making of my own suits allows me to come full circle on awkward teenage-hood life. I made this myself, it’s exactly what I want and I can make as many as I want to!

SaveSave

Categories
Fashion for moms Sew Paradise

Hot Patterns Urban Gypsy off-the-shoulder top

I’ve had this on my must-sew list for at least a year. I wanted to make one for last year spring break, but ran out of time. This year, I planned ahead (and I sew more now), and it’s done, a full 10 days in advance. That’s the new me 😉

I love this top for several reasons – first, it’s very on-trend with the off-the-shoulder look. I made this in a gifted-to-me super light cotton lawn that is gossamer thin. The fact that it’s cotton is it’s only saving grace – in silk, I’d have drunk the entire keg of beer just trying to sew it. The cotton behaved well with a hot iron and some serging.

The pattern goes together very easily – the instructions are clear, and even though I charged ahead and sewed the fronts and backs together at the shoulder seams (like a raglan tee), I did note later in the instructions, that I wasn’t supposed to attach the front sleeves til I was ready to connect the flat, interfaced front band to the elastic-cased back band. It was simple enough to pick out about 2″ of seam and sew it back up once the neckbands were sewn on. I did read them first, I just missed that part. There’s a lot of “If you’re doing A, skip to 7” and things like that, so I missed the part about not sewing on the front sleeves til later.

This top has a shelf bra! Yes, you heard that, a shelf bra is built into the design of this top – there’s a stretchy white bra under this, so I won’t have to wear a strapless bra (who loves those? no one.) I used white ITY for the built in bra. You could sew some cups in there, but I don’t really need them.

I ended up making the back of the top longer than the front, quite inadvertently. I knew from other reviewers of this on the HotPatterns sewing club on Facebook, that petite people had shortened this top. I wanted to wear it with shorts (see below) and not have it look like I wasn’t wearing pants. So I shortened the pattern by folding it up before the hem makes it’s curve – but apparently, I was not even in my fold-up on the front and back (and fortuitously, it was the back that was longer.) Sometimes happy accidents happen. I’m going to actually measure that out and mark the pattern with a slash and tape to make it shorter next time.

I’m showing this with some of my capsule wardrobe for the spring break trip (six days, no laundry facilities) – the shorts are ones I bought at H&M in an emergency “how’d I gain weight?” in Europe this summer, after the shorts I brought with me were suddenly too small. And they’re snug-ish, but I’m working on that. I am wearing them as well with wide leg Perfect Pants from Christine Jonson Patterns.

I love this top, it was very easy to construct, and with the number of light cotton lawn prints in my stash right now, I’ll definitely be making a couple more of these. There’s a tie-sleeve version (seemed like a guacamole catcher to me) which I might try for my next version. There are also front pockets which I will also try in a future version. I did NOT make a muslin – in HotPatterns, I generally get a good fit right out of the envelope with tops (pants, I do have to muslin and adjust.) Besides, with a large stash, a good deal of it things gifted from friends, I really have wearable muslin fabric to work with. And a lot of it.

I highly recommend this pattern. It’s easy to sew, there are nice details and it’s very fashion forward. I’ll replace these images with pool and beachside ones once I’m on spring break!

Save

SaveSave

Categories
Sew Paradise

Ann Normandy Maxi Dress

This is a really cool dress! I recommend this for intermediate sewists.  It is a dress with many wonderful details that make it a joy to sew, but, there are a few tricky spots. Let’s break it down:

This is a classic maxi dress – floor length, sleeveless, and designed to be made in a mid-to-heavyweight linen (or similar fabric). I chose a textured heavy cotton with a herringbone weave to it. It’s close to the hand of a heavyweight linen. I wanted to test out the dress and I have a lot of fabric. It’s perfect for tall people (that is, if you are tall, you’ll have no issues making this dress and having to lengthen.) I removed 9″ from the dress during the layout stage. Fortunately, for me, the perfect spot was right at the vent opening (you can see the high side vents in this photo.)

I chose a size M from the measurement chart, and it fits beautifully with no alterations. I’m a C cup, and it works on me in this size. I like that the top of it is fitted, but it opens up below the bust and slides right over all the squishy bits. It stands away from the body, which will be great for spring break and for this summer. Normal years, it would be chillier in early March in Florida, but this year, they’re having record high temps down there. I’m under no illusions: this summer is forecast to be hot, and this dress will be perfect for work – it’s polished enough to wear to a client meeting but casual enough for work at home and weekend.

This dress has pockets that are sewn to the inner front,  and it has a very nicely sewn folded pocket edge that’s captured in the side seam. This was one of the really nice details of the dress to sew and it came out very well.

There are some tricky bits – the sideseam (which is flat felled) and the vent really threw me on this one. I read the instructions again and again (and there are pictures, too, which are detailed.) But I still messed it up on the first try.

The instructions are to create a lapped vent with 3/8″ folded and narrow hemmed seams. And then, to connect a flat-felled side seam to this vent. I screwed it up by cutting away the wrong side of the seam allowance on the dress, so my flat fell would be on the wrong side, and my only save was to serge this seam to capture both raw edges, and then flat fell it the correct direction. I serged it with white thread, no less (I was not about to rethread my serger at this point.) I will not be showing you those interior photos. I vowed to make it correctly the second time and screwed something else up – but this time, I’m not quite sure what it was. So I plan to digest the instructions again and make a test sample of a sideseam and vent. I’ll report back. Fortunately, overall, it was a save; I was able to get both vent and felled seam to work, but they did not go together as beautifully as instructed.

At this point in the project, I required a beer. Ann Normandy Maxi Dress Beer So my choices were: “Do I feel sufficiently distressed to have the big beer, or can I just chill with a smaller one.” Fortunately, it was the latter. It wasn’t a crisis – it was more determination to see if I could make the dress look good on the outside (with that faux serged-flat felled seam. What will I do differently? I’ll probably make a sample sideseam. In linen next time, although this cotton pressed really well and was not difficult to sew.  It’s hard to justify buying more fabric when I have (nine or ten) big bins full of it and a cabinet besides.

A tip: When sewing the flat felled side seam the first time, the dress is ‘open’ – so it’s easy. But the second side seam, you should sew from the vent UP to the underarm, because that that point, the dress is tubular and you’ll have to keep the other side of the dress from being captured in the seam as you sew the flat felled seam. I still ended up catching a collar tip, but it was one stitch and easily removed. Be careful to sweep the underlayers out of the way as you go.

The squared neck AND the unique squared off underarm facings are really a lot of fun to sew. They are interesting without being too complicated, and there was something so deliciously satisfying to pivot 90 degrees at an underarm facing seam. So precise!

For the first release of this review, I’m in my bedroom. It’s February, and it’s snowing out and I’m not even bothering to adjust the photo. It’s a bit of a mess up here (I had to move my laundry hamper and some other things out of the way), but I did put on lipstick, and fancy long earrings. A big win for me tonight is that, in this photo, I’m sporting my natural hair, which is growing in very well now, and probably I will go on vacation without a wig. I have an autoimmune disease and this was my second round of baldness, which has lasted nearly 16 months. This time last year, I was almost completely bald and wore scarves and headwraps on vacation.

This dress is definitely a must-sew-again. It has distinctive details and a great fit. It’s a bit of a challenge, but I think that if you’re making such a simple dress, a challenge is a good thing; you learn how to do interesting techniques on an otherwise very simple garment.

I will update this review to include a poolside photo once I’m in sunny Florida!

A note, I was given this sewing pattern in exchange for some marketing and web site consulting work for Ann Normandy Patterns. The review is my honest review, I was not compensated for it. I do this type of consulting for a few sewing pattern companies and love it. I love helping these independent designers – and these are GREAT designers – get their beautiful patterns out to the world. This review, and my sewing of the garment, is entirely for me personally.

SaveSave

Categories
Sew Paradise

Creating a Handy Pocket in an Unlined Jacket

20150713_195124 DIY Pocket in an Unlined Blazer or Jacket 20150713_19514420150713_19505720150713_195258This handy technique will enable you to insert an interior pocket in an unlined blazer or jacket that can hold a smart phone, ID, credit card or lipstick. I love blazers. My lined blazers (being of a woman’s cut) rarely have interior pockets like men’s jackets do. I add them when making my own lined jackets, but how do you do the same thing when you have an unlined jacket? Simple, use the facing space to create a pocket!

In this series of photos, you can see a Samsung S(about the size of an iPhone4) with plenty of room. A Samsung S3 will also fit, and so will an S6 (which is similar in size to an iPhone 6.)

The pocket is plenty big enough for credit card, cash and a lipstick tube (although I probably will not be putting a lipstick tube in this cream colored boyfriend jacket.

The technique is very simple:

  1. Sew the facing down from back neck edge to just below the buttonhole.
  2. Backstitch to secure this topstitching
  3. Then, leaving an opening roughly the size of your hand width, start the stitching on the facing down to the bottom hem stitching, and backstitch to secure
  4. You can see the L-shape, down the front facing to where the hem stitching begins

Leaving this opening allows you to slip the phone (or ID or credit card) down into the pocket created by the hem and facing. It’s secure and nearly hidden. This is a knit jacket so I wouldn’t store the phone in here, or it might stretch, but for an evening or a trip to the park with the kids, the interfacing will hold the jacket shape.

How to sew a cord for a corded buttonhole

Take six strands of standard thread, roughly the same length. Knot them all at one end. String them under your presser foot with a zigzag foot and set the stitch length to short (1.5mm) and the stitch width to medium (3-4mm). Zig zag over the threads to create the cord! Although I’m skipping showing you the buttonhole because it and I got into an argument, and it decided to be all pouty on me.