It’s nearly fall – but a great fall/spring transition garment is the bias slip skirt. Here are my picks to sew a bias slip skirt for fall or spring!
The bias slip skirt is an a-line skirt cut on the bias or 45 degree angle of fabric. While this takes a little more fabric, and a single-layer cutting method, it’s an easy to sew skirt. You’ll learn to make a narrow rolled hem, use bias tape for an elastic casing and make a skirt that will stand the test of time. All three that I show in this video I sewed in about 1998 and I can still wear them 25 years and 25lbs heavier!
While I showcase a vintage pattern (two actually) including the Vogue Elements my bias skirts were made from, Butterick has a current one in their catalog, B6799 which is the same as mine – elastic waist, narrow hem. If you have a vintage one in your stash or your mom’s stash with a regular banded waist with a zipper, you can convert that too.
How to convert a shaped zippered skirt to elastic waist skirt:
Trace the pattern off onto tracing paper. Mark the fullest part of the hip of the skirt, lay a ruler down and draw a straight line up to the waist of your traced pattern. Repeat for the other side of the skirt. This is your new side seam cut line. Most are one pattern piece you cut twice. The skirt only has to pull on over your hips to be wide enough, and the elastic takes up the space at the waist for you.
Construct the skirt as usual, sewing the side seams right sides together, then finish and press the side seams as per the pattern instructions.
You can use double fold bias tape for your inner elastic casing. Simply measure the top of the skirt all the way around, and cut the bias binding 3″ longer. Unfold the tape and pin the right sides of the tape to the top of the right side of the skirt, matching the raw edges of the skirt waist to the unfolded edge of the bias tape.
Stitch all the way around, overlapping the tape by 1″ as you get to the end. Trim the excess tape off. Now, fold the bias tape up and press the skirt waistband, pushing the seam allowances toward the bias tape.
Fold the tape under, and fold in the bottom of the bias tape (there will be a perma crease from the factory to fold on), pin to the skirt and stitch around. You’ll feed your elastic through the slot you left in the overlapped bias tape. Try on the skirt, adjust elastic. Pull the elastic out, overlap the ends, being careful not to twist, and then push the sewn edges back inside the casing.
Hem the skirt as per the pattern instructions! Note, bias garments need to hang unhemmed for 24 hours – you’ll even out the hem with your rotary cutter, again, after it relaxes. You can use a rolled hem foot, OR you can turn up 3/8 press, stitch close to the folded edge, then trim away the seam allowance, fold up AGAIN, press and stitch next to the folded edge again. Don’t be too panicked about it, no one who loves you will ever be able to see the hem (and neither will anyone who should be standing three feet away!)
Style the Bias Slip Skirt for Fall:
Ballet flats are super trendy this fall, go for it, it’s a great look, comfortable and chic. Wear an oversized sweater over the skirt.
Try the skirt with your favorite sneakers and sweatshirt for a casual vibe.
Wear the skirt with booties, a concert tee and a Moto jacket.
Wear a wrapped top, the skirt, and dressy shoes for a date night look.
If you do go to an office (like law or finance, where you have to dress up), you can wear a long or short blazer over it with a slim fitting sweater.
Favorite patterns to go with : The LaMegeve top from Naughty Bobbin Patterns (calls for faux fur, and you CAN do that, omg, so luxe, but also any luxury fleece works amazing for this pattern)
The Toaster Sweaters – either one, but the Toaster 2 with bateau funnelneck and long graduated split hem is perfect
The Knit Moto Jacket by Christine Jonson Patterns