I have a sticker from my Local Fabric Store that says Not Today, Satin (Not Today, Satan) after the common misspelling of the name of the lord of darkness. Sewing with satin is not for the weak. Or is it?
But the truth is, almost everyone who sews with (many) satin fabrics hates it! I have had good success sewing with satin fabrics, if you choose the right ones and use the right techniques. I’ll share how to sew a basic bias skirt in satin and walk you through some good tips.
I’ve linked a blog post specifically on sewing a bias slip skirt below, but I’ll share more tips for sewing with satin for other things like satin cargo pants, satin wide leg pants, and satin lining on winter coats!
Satin that is satiny on both sides can be a challenge to sew. Satin that is not satiny on both sides is much easier and offers some design possibilities without losing the drape or sheen of satin.
Satin also comes in crepe-back satin, a pebbly finish fabric (crepe) makes it much easier to handle and stitch and also allows some design possibilities as you can use both sides of the fabric.
Flannel-backed satin is used for winter clothing – and makes a FABULOUS bias slip skirt for colder weather but is designed for lining winter wool coats. It comes in at least 2 weights, a lighter weight and a winter-coat weight (heavier.)
Satin is a WEAVE that creates a smooth surface with a finish on it, and it can be made from many fabrics. Many sewists curse it while sewing, but the variations on satin and some techniques here will definitely help!
The backing on these special satin (crepe-back and flannel-back) fabrics means you can sew them a bit easier. You’ll still be placing satin-to-satin on major seams so here’s how to manage that:
Using basting spray and adhesives to hold satin together while sewing:
You can baste two layers together if they are shifting around a lot. You can also use a temporary basting spray or Steam a Seam for temporarily adhering the seams together. If you choose the basting spray or Steam A Seam, use the latter in the seam allowance and sew just to the left (like a hair to the left) of the steam a seam after pressing it in place. It does wash out but it’s sticky while working with it and can attract dirt in the adhesive if you’re handling it a lot when exposed.
The crepe side or the flannel side against feed dogs and presser feet really helps keep the fabric from sliding around – the only satin parts are the ones touching themselves as right sides together.
You’ll definitely want to serge the seams when done – satin generally ravels a lot in almost any fabrication it’s in (silk, rayon, polyester).
I have also sewn with hammered satin, this is satin that has a slightly flattened surface like a hammered metal. I made a bias slip skirt I still have, from the satin I purchased at JoAnn Fabrics in the 1990s. This textured fabric (poly) is easier to sew and has a nice finish that looks a bit edgy. It sews together easier and you can find this fabric online. Here’s an example of that fabric. When I find the skirt I sewed (in 1995) I’ll share a pic here. Until then, here’s the pattern envelope:
Besides the 1990s slip skirt returning with a welcome vengance, I have seen several examples of wide cinched leg cargo pants in satin, and the wide leg palazzo pants in satin. Here are some great examples of those patterns:
This unisex cargo has wide legs with cinched ankles and interesting curved seamlines:
This great unisex wide loose pant would be fabulous in crepe back satin or flannel back satin for winter. I especially love the darts on this balloon pant that bring the lower legs in on it. Unisex also here, so great for making for the guys in your life (probably not in satin, but you could ask!) I have a boy (almost a man) to sew for who is stylish enough to wear these looks (but probably not in satin.)
https://simplicity.com/mccalls/m8673
Sources for crepe back satin: https://www.voguefabricsstore.com/Fabric-By-Content/Polyester-Fabric/Crepe-Back-Satin/
Flannel back satin, or Kasha brand flannel back satin is my choice for wool coats, and a great wool coat is a perfect coat for winter. Looks great over sweatpants and a hoodie, as well as jeans and a sweater. I love these patterns, and Vogue Fabrics also carries this (I have also sewn with this too). Here are two coat patterns I recently purchased for this winter and these would be awesome lined in Kasha flannel back satin. I have some black Kasha and some aubergine wool for one coat, and a black and fuscia buffalo print for the other coat. I have cream herringbone for the short S3196 coat and it’ll require cream Kasha flannel back satin for sure.
Kasha is reasonably heavy with a heavy drape, and it is flannel backed, so do not be afraid to treat it like a twill or denim, it’s heavy enough!
A few other tips for sewing satin: You can sew between layers of tissue paper to control the slip. The crepe back and flannel back satins eliminate the need for it as the flannel or crepe grip the feed dogs and presser foot like regular fabrics do. Use the basting tape called Wonder Under for temporary basting.
For hemming (on bias or other garments), try this technique. Press under 1/4 to 1/2″ on your hem. Use basting tape if you want. Then, stitch close to the folded edge. THEN using your scissors, carefully cut away that seam allowance. Fold the seam over again, press and stitch again. Do not try that fancy rolled hem foot. It’s going to make you cry in many cases. You can press the hem WIDER than 1/8″ on the foldover so you can use the narrow fusible hem basting tape before you sew if you want.
And last, remember the three foot rule – nobody further away from you than 3′ will see your mistake and anyone closer loves you too much to comment on it.